Dealing With a Biter

Just like their human counterparts, some (not all) rabbits go through a hormonal storm at around the age of four to six months.  Sweet Fluffy will hang out of the cage door and fall into your arms today, and next week will leap out of the cage with teeth bared, looking for a good fight.  This can really hurt our feelings since we love Fluffy and don't know why he doesn't like us anymore!  After one or two good nips we stop being hurt and start getting mad...  "Okay, you wanna' piece of me?!  C'mon!"

Just like dealing with human teenagers, it's best to keep a cool head and simply establish boundaries (see "Establish Dominance", below).  If you  can ride this out for a couple months, you will probably see the amazing transformation into a decent, level-headed adult.  However, if you over- or under-react, you may set up a system of behavior that will be difficult to change later on.

"This is my space and you can't come in!"  This is the motivation most commonly seen in does but also present in bucks.  Simply put, they have a very small space and when you present your hand into that space it seems even smaller, and that is threatening.  In addition, if you are very loud or move very abruptly, this could also be seen as threatening and provoke a defensive attack.

You have just been examining or handling a rabbit, and now you place your hand into the cage with another rabbit of the same sex.  The "Scents" overwhelm the "Senses" and your hand must be put in it's place!  "How dare you come in here smelling like that!"  This is most common in very active bucks -- in fact we've never seen this behavior in a doe.

If the rabbit is very afraid of being hurt or handled (have you been reacting over-aggressively?) it may decide to take you out before an anticipated attack upon itself.  We have seen this in a couple animals surrendered for adoption, and have wondered just what on Earth they have experienced to make them so mistrusting and frightened.  This situation will take time and patience to improve, as there is some type of trauma to overcome.

Very maternal does may become biters in defense of their babies... how could you possibly blame them!  They are doing what nature tells them to do to protect their young.  Admirable, even though annoying.  The good news is that this type of biter is definitely linked to a period of time -- she has a litter -- and will be unlikely to bite once the litter is weaned and gone.

There are certain breeds that are known for aggression and biting.  Although beautiful and challenging to raise, they are not for beginners or for youth.  Also, with these breeds you must acknowledge that the risk comes with the territory, so to speak, and must not hold their aggression against them.  It is bred into them, they can't help it.

In addition, there are certain strains, varieties, and bloodlines within each breed that may be know for it's aggressive tendencies.  In Jersey Woolies, the Blue-Eyed-Whites used to be known for nasty temperaments.  Although all of Anna's BEW's have been docile and sweet, we have been witness to some real psycho BEW's that came out of other lines.  Rest assured that most of these bad-tempered animals have been bred out of the breed's lines by now, and it is rare to come across one that is truly vicious.

This will usually work to keep an adolescent buck in his place so that you can at least fill the feed and water bowls:

 When he runs up to the front of the cage to challenge you, very quickly bring your hand down on top of him and push his shoulders to the floor, holding him there for five to ten seconds.  (This is a calculated move -- be fast and firm or lose a finger, your choice.)  He will struggle.  Hold him down firmly, but do not impede his breathing or risk injuring his spine.  98% of the time, when you release him he will run to the back of the cage in disbelief and think about it.  You may have to repeat this a few times before he gets the idea that you are bigger than him and really should be left alone.

DO NOT hit him, throw things at him, or use another object to push him away.  This will only irritate and frighten him and could lead to permanent behavior problems.

DO NOT play the weaker member of this dominance game, for instance darting in to grab a bowl and darting back out, obviously intimidated.  Your little monster will actually get quite a kick out of this this power struggle and may turn into a tyrant, sitting around all day just waiting for you to come play "the game".

Talk to your rabbits in a calm, kind tone of voice.  Do not be loud, don't move abruptly, and always pick them up out of their cages with gentleness and respect.  Stay calm and be predictable... they will always know exactly what to expect from you.

We found that Anna's Brittania Petites (a very aggressive breed) would bite if we introduced our hands into the cages high above their heads, but not if we came in low at the bottom of the doors.  Evidently the hovering hand is a threat.

Sometimes a buck may be so hormonal that you may need to consider neutering in order to affect a change in his behavior.  This is rare, but may be your last resort if all other tactics have failed and the animal is over 8 to 10 months of age.  At that age he should be well through his "terrible teens".  Just be aware that once a rabbit is neutered, it can no longer be shown as an exhibition animal.  It will be a pet, only.

If all else fails, you may have no choice but to surrender the animal to an experienced breeder who will use it only for production and knows how to deal with the behavior.  If you purchased the animal from a reputable breeder, they will likely take it back and replace it for you with a more docile animal. 

DO NOT give such an animal away as a pet to a child or adult who has no idea what to do with it.

Extremely vicious animals that are not helped even by neutering, should be put down humanely by your vet.