Do Bucks or Does Make Better Pets?

Can I Keep Two Bunnies Together?

First decide on what type of rabbit you are looking for. Most pet owners are looking for a smaller breed, like Netherland Dwarfs, Polish, Jerseys, Holland Lops, etc. For more info on the different breeds go to the American Rabbit Breeders’ Association (ARBA) web site.

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Hmmm… I’m not sure. Personally I’ve found bucks to be the most confident, most curious, and most loving. On the other hand, the most vicious rabbit I ever knew was an obnoxious buck that would actually chase you down (or the dog, or the cat, or the mailman) and attack you. Does, in my experience, tend to be a bit more nervous, territorial, and temperamental, though we have many that are exceedingly sweet. I think it depends on the personality of the bunny and the owner, combined.

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Most small-breed rabbits such as Jersey Woolies, Polish, and Mini Rex are comfortable in a relatively small cage. We use a standard 18" X 30" or 24" X 24" cage for most of our rabbits. You’ll want to purchase urine guards to help prevent "accidents", especially if you have a buck (they tend to spray). The floor wire should be ½" X ½" galvanized welded hardware cloth for small to medium breeds.  If your cage has a dropping pan, you can use pine shavings to help soak up urine and make cleaning easier.  Never use cedar shavings -- they might give your bunny respiratory problems.

If you are keeping your rabbit outdoors, the cage MUST provide protection from predators and shelter from the elements. A wire cage could be kept in a barn or garage, or you may choose to build or buy a rabbit "hutch" which has a roof and should have some method to be enclosed during bad weather. Wherever you house your bunny, be certain that it will be safe from prowling dogs and raccoons, protected from drafts and cold, from wet weather, and will have plenty of ventilation. Keep the cage CLEAN with a regular routine of maintenance.

Bunnies enjoy having a board or mat to lie on instead of the wire floor. We use plastic slotted mats purchased through DaMar’s (see our links page) which are easily cleaned and sterilized. Outdoor hutches should provide a box of some type for the bunny to seek refuge from the weather or predators. Please don’t just leave your bunny sitting in a wire cage, on a wire floor, outside in freezing weather with no way to stay warm. That is cruelty and a sure way to get a sick or dead bunny.

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No, not past the age of a couple months. A buck and doe together will breed and the buck will harass the doe. Two does together probably won’t get along once they reach sexual maturity. They will harass one another and become territorial. Rabbits are happier in the company of other rabbits, but ideally that would be in adjoining cages.

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Find a good pelleted feed that provides 15 to 17% protein and 20% or more fiber. We currently feed Purina (the green bag, family ration) and have also fed Heinhold and Manna Pro with good results.

Rabbits, like cats, can get an intestinal blockage from fur due to grooming themselves. To help prevent this, feed a small handful of good grass hay daily to increase the fiber content of their diet. Do not feed alfalfa hay, as it contains too high a level of protein in addition to the pelleted ration and could cause intestinal problems.

Treats: We love to make our pet happy, and they love to have a treat now and then, but treats should be given only occasionally and with caution. Some favorite foods are:   

dandelion leaves (make sure they have not been sprayed with anything),  raspberry/blackberry leaves, apple twigs/leaves, parsley, green kale, carrots, an apple slice, a few banana slices, clover, plantain leaves, Cheerios, Quaker old fashioned rolled oats, dried bread crusts, sunflower seeds.

Please remember to give only a small amount only once in awhile, no matter how much they beg!

Rabbits like toys. (You try sitting in a cage every day with nothing to do…!) Some of the things we’ve given them: toilet paper tubes, paper towel tubes, plastic balls, cardboard mats, cardboard boxes, pieces of wood to chew on (some trees are poisonous, as is treated wood, so use caution) . (I even saw a buck once that had to have his stuffed toy in his cage!) Make sure it isn’t sharp or toxic, and they can’t get tangled up in it or hurt on it.

Of course the best thing in the world to a bunny is the chance to get OUT of the cage and run around! We let various bunnies out to run in the aisle way while we feed and water at night. You can buy or make a portable run to let your bunny out in the yard. Please don’t let them go unsupervised, though, because they are escape artists and there are dogs and cars out there.

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It is very important to find a vet that is experienced in caring for rabbits. Rabbits are not that common as pets and many vets haven’t seen one since vet school. Rabbits are sensitive to many drugs commonly used on other animals, and some common antibiotics can actually kill them. If you can find a vet who has cared for at least few pet bunnies, and who is willing to spend some extra time keeping up on the latest research in rabbit care, consider yourself very lucky.

One of the most important things to watch for in your bunny’s health is diarrhea. Rabbits will get diarrhea easily whenever the food is changed, the water is dirty, or there are stress factors in the environment. The problem is that the rabbit digestive system is very fragile and even a simple disturbance that goes unchecked can turn deadly. Rabbits dehydrate very quickly and their intestinal system will shut down. Also be aware that if your rabbit stops eating altogether you need to promptly get it to a vet.

Rabbits adjust very well to colder conditions, but heat will kill them. It is highly important to keep them cool and well-ventilated any time the temperature soars above 80 degrees. Make sure the cage is positioned to provide shade from direct sunlight and to allow air movement. Do not allow the bunny to be subjected to drafts, however, or it may develop a respiratory illness.

Do your homework and research as much as you can about rabbit health and care. Much excellent information is available over the internet nowadays, and you can also purchase some very good guide books from the ARBA and breed specialty clubs.

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Well, maybe. Probably not. Keep in mind that the reason the breeder sold the rabbit as a pet is that it would not have done well as a show animal. There are probably one or more characteristics that will either disqualify your bunny or will be considered serious faults. However, some 4-H clubs have a class specifically for PET rabbits, where the animals are judged on their overall health and friendliness instead of their markings, type, weight, etc. Such a class would be an excellent way for a child to learn about caring for a rabbit and enjoy the thrill of showing a much-loved pet without the expense of investing in quality show animals.

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Of course you could, but please, please don’t. Not only is it a difficult challenge to raise a healthy litter, but it is almost impossible for a non-breeder with non-showable bunnies to find good homes for those babies. In addition, if you paid a "pet" price for your bunny, you most likely did not receive pedigree papers for that animal. Take my advice: the pet market is glutted.

Most breeders started out with just a couple pets, and raising rabbits is a wonderful and enjoyable hobby! If that’s something you feel you’d be interested in, then there are plenty of show-quality animals available for sale at rabbit shows and through breeders, and the market for high-quality show animals is always good. However, don’t delude yourself that you will ever make any money from breeding and showing rabbits. Vast amounts of money are invested by breeders in search of that perfect show rabbit, and any sales of their extra bunnies will only help them to break even, at the very best. Ninety-nine percent of the time it is only a hobby, pure and simple.

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